Tuesday, 15 May 2012

Sore tips before the rain. Gotta love rock climbing :-)

Had a day pass today and with some sun floating around between the showers I went online looking for someone to get some climbing with. Kev Shields responded and I agreed to go to [lay belay bunny for him working a little on his new project.
Kev's commitment and psyche always impresses the hell out of me so I was happy to go and hold his rope. We headed west on the Mallaig road and this being my first visit to the crag I was super impressed by what a great piece of rock this is. As Kev put his toprope up I traversed along the base admiring the individual minute flakes of mica glittering on the steep schist slab.
Kev nailed the route first time on the top rope and suggested I have a bash at the neighbouring E5 as he rested. E5. Looking up it I couldn't see much to go at at all. My fingers haven't had a proper work out in...  months. But I'd seen Kev on the first bit (common with his line) and the moves looked lovely and he assured me it was all on the feet. Anyway I got up it with 3 or 4 rests much to my own shock and the pleasure of the movement was a fantastic reminder of a major ingredient in my enjoyment of rock climbing. You know one of those routes that the sequence and shapes you make just leave you with a big grin on your face? Even on a toprope it made me really wanting to get on more routes like that.
Then it rained. Hard. And we sacked it.
Now my tips are pink and tender from those tiney sharp schist edges and my distal phalanges feel like they've been shoved through the first joints of my fingers. Feels good :-)
 lovely rock
 squeaking up
 Kev working it
Rain stops play

Monday, 14 May 2012

Training days...

Today I was working with Connor and Andy who are 2 of the staff at The Ice Factor. We went to Glen Nevis where we had hoped to have a group of primary school children to take climbing and abseiling. However they had taken 1 look at the weather this morning and decided that indoor activities appealed more to them (and I can't blame them although it did brighten up). So instead we ended up looking at all manner of rigging problems and solutions for working with groups... and we didn't even get too wet!

Sunday, 13 May 2012

CWA Trg and wild weather

Just back from 2 days of CWA Trainings at Glasgow Climbing Centre and Climbzone Braehead. The weather is wild in Lochaber. There is a big camper van well off the road near Loch Tulla and the burns are all in tremendous spate round Rannoch Moor and Glencoe. a mixed week ahead again!
The group making up some games
Stevi on the autobelays at Climbzone

Saturday, 12 May 2012

CWA Assessment

Well done to the successful candidates on the CWA Assessment I ran at Glasgow Climbing Centre yesterday!

Thursday, 10 May 2012

E-bites, great writing (not mine), swearing and inspiration

Most people who know me take the piss out of how much time I spend online. Blogging, facebook and now Twitter are a bit of a waste of time... Having said that a friend went to a social media seminar recently where he was told that the use of these online media is 'the modern way to have a conversation'. Possibly, although I'd expect a conversation to be a bit more 2 way than many of the empty e-bites we see (and here I include myself as being as guilty as anyone).
Every now and then I get lucky though and over my breakfast this morning I read 2 very different pieces of writing. Chris Townsend tweeted a link to this piece by eco-business evangelist Yvon Chouinard: http://www.outsideonline.com/outdoor-adventure/politics/How-Did-Things-Get-This-Bad.html . I'll let you read it yourself and see if you get the little guilt pangs that I did. Let My People Go Surfing was a great read on his business philosophy but easy to write off as only applicable to a small company. But his next book, The Responsible Company (i'm sure there is some irony that I'm linking to that title on Amazon) is due out in the next few days and the fact that corporate giant like Wal-Mart, Adidas, Nike, Gap, Yahoo, our own M+S (as well as competitors North Face and REI) have been taking advice from Chouinard rather gives the lie to this.
The other piece I've read today gave me a nice shake up and wake up. I'm always a little seedy when I come back off a good expedition (1 friend would research me and call it 'post-residential syndrome'). Having been out somewhere just pushing myself a little, dealing with what comes and the simplicity of staying safe, fed and warm whilst working towards a simple, physical objective its always a little hard to come back to 'everyday' life. Toss in the fact that I've been diagnosed with arthritis in both my knees and that my running career is definitely over (I can't jog 10m let alone the 10k I used to happily knock out on local forest tracks) and my active life has been feeling a little grey (Note: I've bugger all to feel sorry for myself about really- great family, second child on the way, doing a job that I love- just feeling my age).
I've never spoken to Nick Bullock but I suspect I'd get a pithy quip along the lines of 'man up youth' and reading his latest blog offering: http://nickbullock-climber.co.uk/2012/05/06/living-life-true/ got me thinking again. When I'm out on a good trip or have a good days climbing I really feel that passion for it all that makes me want to do it in the first place again. Its too easy as an Instructor to go through the motions of teaching the mechanics and to forget what its all about but it sounds like there was no danger of that at the latest round of BMC Alpine Lectures!
Climbing isn't about text books and perfect practise (don't tell the pedants on UKC, you'll have a 300 post bitchfest) - these things are nice places to start but when you need it most you have to get a little creative, dig deep and get on with it (aside- how many engineers/ex engineers do you know who are climbers? Apparently there is something in the problem solving- movement and ropework- that strikes a chord). Usually for me this involves swearing, relief and exultation. And a dirty great smile afterwards.
If Nick's critics don't get that (or have lost it) from their climbing... or don't see the value of having someone who can articulate it (and I'm including the swearing as articulate) that then they are missing something (the point?). I have heard Nick speak a few times now and its like a bucket of cold water on a hot day; shocking as hell, not always immediately welcome but refreshing nonetheless.
Resolution for the day: go back out there and do something to swear about (great thing is that's relative- one mans wet Diff is another man's E9) and make sure when I'm working more of that comes into what I teach.
Right I'm off out on the bike... to a wet Polldubh... if that doesn't make me swear what will!

Post script. 2 hours on the bike and an hour soloing wet mica schist in my bike shoes. World now a brighter... wetter place.

Tuesday, 8 May 2012

Cool on Curved Ridge

Today I was doing some staff training for The Ice Factor. Isi is working towards her MIA Assessment and as part of the process we went to look at a mountaineering day on Buachaille Etive Mor. On the drive down to Glencoe I could see that the snow line was in places down to 600m so it promised to be a chilly day. Fortunately things melted off to some extent as went up and down the classic Curved Ridge.





Sunday, 6 May 2012

Applecross

We were on out annual May Bank Holiday jaunt to Applecross with a big team of friends. Good food courtesy of The Walled Garden, The Applecross Inn and the Applecross Campsite and the weather didn't disappoint either; it as warm, cold, sunny and hailed- but much more of the good stuff than the bad stuff. For the first time since the winter I got out on the bike. the ride from Applecross NE to Kenmore takes less than 2 hours but is superb rideable single track with great views to Torridon. From there you can return by the coast road but the route is so good I always turn and come back again. Today we were at Sands and there is a lovely short 'coffin road' from Applecross Bay to the beach- worth it for the lovely stonework of the bridge over the gorge high above the road. A great way to spend the weekend.
 One of the best short wild rides in Scotland
 Snow on the Torridon Munros
Sandy working his leg muscles at Sands