Friday, 15 April 2016

West Ridge of Sgurr Connich

I've lived over 12 and a half years in Lochaber and its getting rarer for me to find enjoyable new spots to visit but today was a welcome exception. Steve and I were on day 2 of with our West Highland College students on the Rescue and Incident Management course and today we wanted to give them some simple rope work, route finding and general mountaineering tools. The forecast wasn't helpful but a flip through Noel Williams' Lochaber Scrambles reminded me of the routes down the side of Loch Shiel I'd always planned to do but never gotten around to. Its always a bit of a gamble going to a new venue on a teaching day but given how low lying the route was (ideal with fresh snow forecast to low levels) we decided to give it a try.
We had a grand scramble with an opportunity to play with the ropes on the approach (passing wood anemones and primroses in bloom) . The gneiss/pegmatite slabs are rough and either hold little vegetation or enough to provide reassuring ledges- very different from yesterday's lichenous mica schist. We were zapped with hail and heavy snow high on the route but its easy to zigzag and avoid the steps you don't want to do. The group coached each other through the slab sections and used the rope to protect the final steps up to a stunning sunny view as we made our way the short hop to the summit of Meall na h-Airigh (Rounded Hill of the Shieling) passing frogspawn laden pools and a large pellet of undigested bones, fur and insect exoskeleton from a raptor.
The sun was out and the views north to Glenfinnan were lovely with the viaduct clearly visible. A little further east the 2 tops of Gulvain stood out against the blue sky but it was the view along Loch Eil to Ben Nevis that we followed down the east ridge and back to the van parked at Callop.
 The West Ridge of Sgurr Connich
 A little navigation
 A little rope work
 Must be spring
 The gorge
 Onto the ridge
 Rough slabs
 Change in the weather
 Hail...
 ...and snow
 Round the corner
 The Loch below
 Loch Shiel
 Come on up
 Loch Shiel below
 Topping out
 Top team
 Time for a drink
 Aha! A pellet
 Fresh snow on Ben Nevis
 Glenfinnan below
Time to go!

Thursday, 14 April 2016

Training for trouble

Today Steve and I were working with 7 West Highland College students on their 'Rescue and Incident Management' module. We headed up to Steall Meadows and around Meal Cumhain looking at prevention, leadership styles, contacting the emergency services, equipment and some scenarios varying from a blister to moving an injured party and the limitations of various types of carrys. A fine, cool day and the pictures show plenty of snow still in the coires of the Mamores although the ridges are beginning to strip back .Another blast of winter tomorrow though!
 Stunning first thing
 Through the gorge
 An Steall Ban
 Sunshine
 Across the meadow
 Well packaged!
 In shelter
 Snug as a big in a thermal wrap
 3 years in Lochaber and his first time over the bridge
 Lift
 How far can you carry over rough ground?
 Blister
 Where are we anyway?
 Through the bealach- its that mug again!
 Sgurr a Mhaim, Stob Ban and Mullach nan Coirean
Plenty snow left and more to come tomorrow

Wednesday, 13 April 2016

Developing the IDS at Glenmore Lodge

For the last 2 days I've been working at Glenmore Lodge with the new members of the Instructor Development Scheme. As part of my role as the Lodge's climbing wall Technical Advisor I did a day of site specific training to make sure they are happy supervising the wind variety of climbers that may visit the wall, ensuring they can deal with any problems that arise and that they are happy making simple, day to day inspection of equipment and the fabric of the wall. On the second day I was running an MCofS FUNdamentals 1 for them looking at theories of long term participant development, warm ups for different types of climbers, the concepts of balance, weight shift and centre of mass and how they impact on us on off vertical and vertical surfaces and the use of hand and footholds- a top fun day with a chatty team!
Figuring problems and solutions out for themselves
Peter on a funky chimney problem
FUNdas 1 What are the fundamentals of climbing? 
 Warmups- tic tac toe 
 Human knot- a classic
 Designing exercises in agility, balance and co-ordination
 Fail!
 How do you get that to stick there Becky?
 Simon says
 Touch a hold
 Toss a beanbag
 David enjoying Peter's facial expressions?
 Ring a sling
 Centre of Mass or Centre of Gravity?
 Balls in armpits?
 The pendule rule
 Accuracy and precision but how do you carry it forwards into a wall context?
Know your holds