Wetter today

The forecast showed a day of heavy showers but an early start meant that Vern, Helen and I were gearing up at the base of Styx Buttress Right Wall (VDiff) just as the rain was arriving. Not to be denied Vern headed off for his first lead climbing the route in 2 pitches. He got the driest of the weather and Helen coped really well smearing on wet mica schist! Good job guys.

Discretion being the better part of valour- after abseiling off and in heavier rain- we headed to the Ice Factor. Here we reviewed the ropework of the last 2 days and looked at climbing movement technique on slabs, vertical walls and overhangs. I gave the guys a few drills to help improve their footwork and to help encourage them to move their centre of gravity more effectively and we were all pleased with the result. Routes that baffled them 3 days ago became relatively easy by comparison... I love it when a plan comes together!

Thanks also to Derek for these 2 pics from the other day on the Buachaille.

BBC Articles on the Wakhan

Here are the 3 links to BBC Articles on our trip as requested by a few people:
http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-scotland-10758240
http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-scotland-10758092
http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-scotland-tayside-central-11082815
And one more:
http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-scotland-10663471

Dry with gales in Glen Nevis

Second day with Vern and Helen and we went to Polldubh for some more climbing. The rock was bone dry and any midges would have needed to be jet propelled to cope with the wind! Today was about belay building, placing and removing gear and some movement coaching. We climbed Pinnacle Ridge (Severe), Three Pines (Mild Severe), Flying Dutchman (VS4c with the Direct Finish) and a pitch of Reptons Right Wall (VDiff) before abseiling off to look at retreating from a climb.

Buachaille Etive Mor

Today I went to the Buachaille with Vern and Helen. We climbed D Gully Butress (including Hells Wall the short pitch of severe with limited gear) before switching to looking at mountaineering ropework to carry on up Curved Ridge and over the summit to descend by Coire na Tullaich. Despite the very cool and blustery weather there were plenty of climbers out on Agags, North Face Route, Crowberry Direct and Engineers Crack.

SPA Ass Day 2

A cool and misty start at Neilston Quarry today. All 3 candidates successfully demonstrated the skills and judgement required of an SPA holder so well done to Karen, Chris and Tristan who all passed and enjoyed a little further training as the sun burnt off the mist!




(Creative use of footwear as rope protectors from Chris!)

SPA Assessment in the sun

After an eary start at Glasgow Climbing Centre another hot day saw me at Auchinstarry Quarry again today with 3 candidates for SPA Assessment. The team made various ascents of Slinky Lizard and Scream (both HS), Tar and Spirogyra (VS4c) also solving the sort of small problems that might crop up when you are climbing at a single pitch venue like this. I've had a spate of emails from old friends who contacted me after seeing the article this morning in The Metro.

Working in Glasgow and more media attention.

Yesterday and today I have been directing an SPA Training course for The Glasgow Climbing Centre.
This meant I wasn't available to join Neal for an interview on the Afghanistan Exped. on STV's 'The Hour'. The MCofS who sponsored us with an expedition grant have also put a piece on the expedition on their newspage.
I've also had an interview with 'The Metro' who will have an article on us tomorrow.