Alan Halewood

Tuesday, 23 June 2015

Sunday on Curved Ridge

On Sunday Steven, Leks and I did Curved Ridge with lads soloing or using the rope to ascend all except the 2 steepest sections. We also visited the top of Crowberry Tower before abseiling into the gap at the top of the left hand fork of Crowberry Gully and bagging the summit (Lok’s first Munro). Another mixed day with the worst showers on the summit (sleet on Midsummers day!) but a pleasant descent.

Saturday on Dinnertime Buttress

For the last 4 days I’ve been working for the MCofS on 2 introductory mountaineering courses based at the SMC's Lagangarbh Cottage

On Saturday Gordon came out to observe (another MIA candidate) as I took Adam, Steven, Loks and Jim up Dinnertime Buttress discussing movement on steep ground, pace and route choice. In the wee amphitheatre at the top we got the ropes and some slings out to look at some ‘emergency’ ropework in ascent and descent before heading through the mist up Stob Coire nan Loachain (briefest of views of the snow coires east and west of Bidean) before descending its NE ridge.

Friday on the Aonach Eagach

On Friday I was guiding the Aonach Eagach for Steve Fallon with Gregor and Alisdair- Iain was along working towards his MIA too. We had a pretty grey day with a greasy start but fortunately the rock dried off. The only views we saw were of the sun straight above us through fleeting gaps in the cloud.

Thursday, 18 June 2015

Damp rock

Out with Barry and Adam today in Glen Nevis. Barry has been on a couple of guided routes on Ben Nevis with me and fancies getting on the sharp end himself and Adam is working towards his MIA.
Poor Baz, whenever we get together it seems to rain and today was no exception. We got away with a dryish Pinnacle Ridge and it was breezy enough to be midge free but by the time we were on Styx Buttress Right Wall it was a steady drizzle that stayed with us as we abseiled off and throughout the Gutter too. Plenty of opportunities for belay building and gear placement for him to develop though. The sun does shine in the Highlands, honest Barry!

Getting a handle on his clove hitches

A little damp

Proper wet!

Unconcerned local at the Alp

Wednesday, 17 June 2015

Assessments + Meetings but back out tomorrow

Yesterday was a day run to Aberdeen to assess 3 successful candidates for their Climbing Wall Award at Transition Extreme. Today was a day run to Perth for a meeting about more work in the future. Tomorrow I'll be climbing, fingers crossed for some dryish weather!

Friday, 12 June 2015

Springtime on Tower Ridge...

… or at least that's what it felt like. I've seen less snow in mid April and now its mid June. I've had some work cancel this weekend (poor chap fell through a roof and broke his pelvis…. ouch… get well soon :-( and with the weather so good today I knew I had to get out for a leg stretch. Jamie told me that he and Max would be on Tower Ridge working and that Ali was heading that way too so I took a lift from him to Torlundy, pushed my bike up to the top car park and sweated my way in chatting to the guys and their clients.
There was a little rotten snow in the East Gully and then it was dry rock until just above the Great Chimney where we hit our first patches. The Eastern Traverse was doable without crampons but more pleasant with them and then they were a distinct advantage on the last 50m to the plateau.
I scrambled, dozed, drank, sweated, took pics and scrambled some more and was on the summit (just the cairn still sticking out) to take pics of folks moving round the Great Tower and through the Gap.
So hot today it felt like summer but the snow cover is still very spring like… and there is more snow potentially forecast this weekend… madness.
Lots of ski tracks in evidence beneath some monster cornices and there were quite a few incidences of spontaneous ice fall round the N Face and even a small avalanche down Tower Gully. Lots of debris piles and evidence of bigger slides in Observatory Gully and Coire na Ciste too.
There was a very vocal male snow bunting in breeding plumage singing to everyone on the summit and the Great Tower Today. The RSPB have them down as year round residents of the Cainrgorms but winter only residents of Lochaber… guess that means its still winter!!