Wednesday 2 January 2008

29Dec Stob Coire Nan Lochan

Nick and I went to Glencoe on the 29th hoping that the overnight snow fall would give some good climbing. Unfortunately things werent very well frozen together so we decided to go for a route I hadnt tried before but which looked like it had sufficient snow to climb. We climbed Boomerang Arete (III) using elbows, knees and a sort of front crawl through about 4 inches of fresh snow! The route starts on the bottom right hand side of Boomerang gully and the initial wall pitch gives good sport with some variation possible. The second pitch takes you onto the large ledge running round the butress and the third follows a chimney/gully line on the right. At the top of this the climbing becomes easy allowing a quick escape. We descended Broad Gully and just escaped the need for head torches - often essential at this time of year. We could have tried Dorsal Arete or Ordinary Route but it made a nice change to try something new rather than just sticking to the popular routes in the coire.

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