Wednesday, 21 November 2012

Sunny UHI Rock Assessment Jahu E6 6a!

So today I was working with Ben and Dan from the second year of the Degree course at UHI's School of Adventure Studies on a rock climbing assessment. Both are keen climbers but Dan has a little more experience.
We started with Styx Right Wall a 2 pitch VDiff which gave me a chance to look at their gear placement and belay building. Ben then took us through and abseil off of the crag and after that he went and set up a top rope for us on SW Buttress.
Dan had something else in mind. We headed over to Scimitar Buttress and he set a bottom rope up on Jahu. This gearless E6 6a has been on his radar since he climbed its E5 neighbour. He kept his hed in a good space setting a clear goal for faultless attempts on a top rope before he was going to go for it. His feet did pop twice but he was able to identify exactly why and correct the error immediately so finally he went for the head point. The rope was pulled and off he went for the solo and it obviously focussed his mind as it was his smoothest ascent yet. He did put the wind up Ben and I with a wee power scream after the crux though!
First time I've had a client climb E6 when out with me!  No credit to me though- nice climbing Dan. Next I want to introduce you to the whole winter climbing thing......
Oh, and he did get a good grade on his assessment but Jahu was only a part of that. 
Part of the reason he was able to go for it today was the fine cool weather. The white stuff is back down to about 1000m (not cold enough yet though) and it was a fine and sunny day.
 VDiff warmup
 Top of Styx Right Wall
 Setting top rope on Jahu
 The rest on Jahu
 Into the crux...
 Getting it right...
Happy Dan!

20 comments:

Adam Hughes said...

Power Scream! There's not holds to pull on. I did the E7 straight up this year, that's very good, but a massive step up if he fancies it. Both Jahu and the E5 are font 6a. The E7 is probably font 7a+.

Alan said...

Is that Johanns Route? Dan mentioned it as a project but wants to talk to J for beta. He made Jahu look very easy and went for it very quickly but had done WTMTM the E5 before. I think the scream was relief at getting the (relatively friendly) hold on that!

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