Raeburns Route

Sally and I took Steve to Stob Coire nan Lochan today to help him 'winterise' his summer climbing. We went to Raeburns (Ordinary) Route and with a good start were on the first pitch before anyone else was in the coire. We discussed avalanche avoidance, winter conditions and movement on mixed ground, winter stance management and gear placement. Steve's experience showed through and by the last pitch (after following the 'pedestal' variation) was ready to lead the last ropelength with me climbing beside him.

The route is well stepped but the snow was a little more 'airy' and less firm than a few days ago. Cracks were also a little more iced up. The winds weren't as bad as they might have been but there was some spindrift around and there were fresh soft cornices around some aspects at gully mouths and we could see snow being deposited on lee slopes.

Pics from New Year's Day

Thanks to Scott for these pics and the video of Rich and I playing on the Lower Falls after soloing Steall.

And a little fun from today:

The story so far....

Such a great season so far! Lots of amazing climbs being done all over England, Wales and Scotland, first ascents enough to make the guidebook authors despair and enough roadside ice to make us all give Rjukan and Cogne up and stay at home. I've put together a video of my winter so far, hope you enjoy it and thanks to the many folks who have sent e-mails about the offerings so far this year- lots more to come. A day off followed by 2 days climbing and 3 mountaineering this week then weekdays I should be at Glenmore Lodge with the odd day's work or personal climbing at weekends until mid March. After that it's back west hopefully for a good late season on Ben Nevis! Get in touch if you want to book some late season action.
Enjoy the rest of the season everyone.
(And I even got the tax return done today!)

Twisting Gully 17 Jan 2010

Today Alex and I went to Stob Coire nan Lochan. It was a pleasant change to walk in in a thermal after yesterday's rain and there was plenty of blue sky around as we chose a route. Alex had read about Twisting Gully and liked the look of the route so we headed on up (many thanks to the two guys who headed to Twisting Grooves rather than queue/risk a tangle).

There were regular waves of spindrift coming down the route but plenty of scoured firm snow to follow giving good climbing. Half way up however the weather turned and as it began to snow the spindrift increased and cornices began to build above the gully- so we upped the pace and made very short work of the upper section (the right side of the headwall area was scoured clean giving firm rapid climbing).

Alex dropped a snapgate and a large nut low on the route... if anyone should happens across them its worth a beer+postage as reward!

Plenty of teams in the coire today enjoying routes (and the usual queues on Dorsal Arete). The strong south westerly was beginning to build cornices around the gully rims and leaving some fresh windslab deposits.

Tday I ws working for Abacus Mountaineering.

I'm now taking my first 2 days off (defintiely not on the hill) since 20th December to do my tax return........ :-(

Back.... to black....

The thaw has welll and truely set in on the west. Today Kenny and Cilian and Andrew and I went to Stob Coire nan Lochan as the snow retreated and the ice turned to water and headed to the sea. The snow line was heading rapidly to 700m as we walked in in the rain but above the Coire floor it alternated between rain, snow and freezing rain all day.

Kenny did Dorsal Arete by the Direct Start (he had company from Tim from PYB and Andy Turner out for the day with the Mountain Equipment Team) and we did a IV,5 further round the coire.

The snow was deep and wet, with some firmer older stuff sometimes visible on steep ground and turf well frozen beneath- where insulated with snow (exposed stuff was less secure). Despite the rain we had a good day out with some nice climbing.

Quite impressive the amount of snow that has melted, the amount of water on the move and even the ice that we avoided on the way up that had turned to slush on the path on descent!

Today I was working for Abacus Mountaineering.

Deja Vu

0730, blowing hard in a dark carpark and its raining. Out across the bridge and up the icey path as the snow is receding in the drizzle. Scramble up past the waterfalls and then a last steady pull to the base of the first pitch. Its No.6 Gully again!

Fortunately its a cracking route and although it might seem I'm lacking in imagination its more about choosing the right route for the client than for me. No.6 fitted the bill perfectly for Andrew today and Kenny was also there working with Cillian. Both of the lads are from Limerick University and were looking for climbing at about Grade IV. As I'd a good feel for the condition of the route, and more importantly the snow, from yesterday we decided to go and take a look.

Today it was raining from sea level to the top of the route. The 2 main pitches were fat but a little cruddy on the surface, the link pitches are however getting broken and by now are probably rock running with water. We got an early start and climbed very quickly, aware of the ongoing thaw around us.

Topping out we could see evidence of large patches of wet layered snow in gully lines above No.6. As the rain continues and this snowpack gets heavier with moisture they will slide and pour down the gullys on this face- so perhaps not a route for the weekend.

Kenny and I were working for Abacus Mountaineering today.

No. 6 Gully Aonach Dubh

I was glad to do this route after years of waiting a week ago...... I was equally glad Andy requested it today- its great. I knew it might be busy as Alan Kimber did it and blogged it yesterday and told me he was heading there again. So I caught and early lift down with Guy and Graham (who were also after it) to meet Andy who I was climbing with today. To Graham's horro he realised he'd left his boots in Fort William so Andy offered to let Guy climb with us. We were the first team on th route and the guys climbed really well- keeping a good line in banter going the whole way. In fact I was almost too weak from laughter to place ice screws on the crux - but I'm not sure Andy's tendency to compare me to 'the Hoff' was a compliment!!

We were up and down in very good time, keeping ahead of the several teams who appeared later, and heading off to my house to exchange photos, have a brew and a brownie and let Andy hit the road for a long drive home- hopefully see you in March mate!

Conditions: plenty of fresh unconsolidated snow, some isolated slab on the descent, snowing above 300m, raining lower down. The route was weeping a little water but in good nick despite quite a few footsteps and being a little chopped about.

WARNING. Just thought I'd add this. There are big patches of snow, hanging ice and ice bonded rock all perched just waiting to let rip. The thaw due to start tomorrow may well cause some big snow/rock/ice avalanches and falls in the next couple of days. Please think very hard before you go somewhere where you don't know exactly what conditions are like above you. In particular watch out for all those ice filled gullys. Its only 1 weekend and if the freeze is over so be it. Better to go to the wall, to build some brownie points with the family and stay at home, or go for a walk than to end up a statistic.