Friday, 15 January 2010

Deja Vu

0730, blowing hard in a dark carpark and its raining. Out across the bridge and up the icey path as the snow is receding in the drizzle. Scramble up past the waterfalls and then a last steady pull to the base of the first pitch. Its No.6 Gully again!
Fortunately its a cracking route and although it might seem I'm lacking in imagination its more about choosing the right route for the client than for me. No.6 fitted the bill perfectly for Andrew today and Kenny was also there working with Cillian. Both of the lads are from Limerick University and were looking for climbing at about Grade IV. As I'd a good feel for the condition of the route, and more importantly the snow, from yesterday we decided to go and take a look.
Today it was raining from sea level to the top of the route. The 2 main pitches were fat but a little cruddy on the surface, the link pitches are however getting broken and by now are probably rock running with water. We got an early start and climbed very quickly, aware of the ongoing thaw around us.
Topping out we could see evidence of large patches of wet layered snow in gully lines above No.6. As the rain continues and this snowpack gets heavier with moisture they will slide and pour down the gullys on this face- so perhaps not a route for the weekend.
Kenny and I were working for Abacus Mountaineering today.

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