Monday, 19 January 2015

Bluebird day on the Aonach Eagach

Claire has had it on her ticklish for a while… I knew there would be unconsolidated snow around but was hoping that weekend travel would have left something of a broken trail. The weather said 'YES'!
A bit of trail breaking on a drifted in path (fortunately Jamie B was shadowing me and took his turn) but cold, clear and stunning!
 A rosey dawn
 Higher
 Higher still
 Someone looks happy
Leg rest for a moment
 Anyone would think she was enjoying herself?
 On a ledge
 Past the first difficulties… bring it!
 On the rope
 Warm work
 Going down
 Using the ground
 Stering the pinnacles
 First pinnacle
 Second pinnacle
 Into the west
 Looking back
 Avoiding a powdery downclimb
 Twinkletoes shows us the way
 Weary but happy
The soloist who overtook us heading to the end of the ridge.

Sunday, 18 January 2015

That's better! Great on Golden Oldy

Nice to be be back out and not fighting the weather. Ruairidh, John and I were on Aonach Mor today. Lots of other folk had seen the avalanche forecast and also decided that the west face would be a good option so as we left the ski centre we were at the front of a long crocodile of folk.
I decided that life would be easier for us at the front of the queue so kept the foot down and broke trail all the way to Golden Oldy. This was pretty knackering but gave us a clear run up one of my favourite mountaineering routes in fair weather- well done John and Ruairidh for rising to the challenge of following me! Ken was close behind with his team and there were more following him as well as multiple pairs trying to figure out who was on Western Rib, who was on Daim Buttress and who was just having fun on a random piece of mixed mountainside!
Plenty of evidence of cross loading in the stream gullies that carve down this face gave us something to talk about and several times as we moved onto the side of the route I kicked of small slabs that sheared easily.
Nice to come down through a busy Nevis Range with lots of folks enjoying the great conditions.
 At the front of the crocodile of climbers
 Low on the route
 Getting higher
 The Allt Daim below
 Half way
 Ken and team below
 Narrower...
 Very narrow!
 Last bit
On the way down

Friday, 16 January 2015

Day 5 of a tough week in the Cairngorms

Having ticked all our major goals for the week today was just a bit of fun. The team took me out for a walk to the north ridge of Cairngorm where we saw some great views, some lovely sastrugi and didn't wear goggles all day! We came down at the end of the day back to Glenmore Lodge for me to say farewell to a super enthusiastic team.
Tough week that, for students and staff alike. The weather was brutal at times and its inspiring to see my colleagues working their butts off to make good, safe, fun learning days. Well done anyoe working on the hill this week!













Thursday, 15 January 2015

Snowholes, snowshoes, snow storms and…night nav

After a morning reviewing yesterday, checking the forecasts and looking at all things snow hole the Glenmore Lodge Advanced Winter Skills team and I had a serious discussion as to what to do today… if anything. We watched a video on The Avalanche at Tunnel Creek and talked through the various heuristic traps involved and held them up against our plan for today. We had the option not to go out or to stick our necks out looking for a slope to dig a snow hole into (i.e. a steep, snowy lee slope…. not the best ting to be questing after with today's forecast). We decided to go out but laid some clear ground rules about where we weren't going today and involved everyone in the decision making. 
Then we got lucky…
After drop off at the sugar bowl and a flounder up the other side of the Allt Mor we were battered by the winds doing their usual southerly thing… i.e. screaming down the north side of the 'Gorms out of the Coires. We used the sowshoes a little before the wind got to strong and we needed to crouch and scuttle along the ridge. Near Airgiod Meall we were following the stream line in calmer conditions looking hopefully for the right snow bank and there it was; 3m high and when my probe went 3m in there was a cheer and the digging commenced. After producing an excellent snow hole and enjoying a brew it was head torches on for the snowy blowy night nab over the tops and down through Glenmore Forest back to the Lodge for dinner!












Breezy Cairngorm night nav from Alan Halewood on Vimeo.

Digging in in Coire an t Sneachda