Weekend teaching rock climbers

Sara and Giles were back for a second weekend and after a chat about their goals and a look at the weather we decided that Glen Nevis could do us for 2 more days. Saturday saw a few spits of rain and a cool breeze but this didn't stop us. We went to Tricouni Buttress where I led Tricouni Slab (first route I ever led at Polldubh and needed a little post winter gardening) and The Corner (this is great, rough rock a grand move between 2 roofs and good gear) creating an opportunity for the guys to create their own belays and place some gear. These routes are good and plenty clean enough but could do with traffic to keep them that way- go climb them! Time to let Sara and Giles loose on the sharp end. Letting folk lead is one of the most rewarding and essential parts of a Mountaineering Instructor's job and there are lots of factors to weigh up. We kept things very easy to allow them to focus on gear and rope work climbing Hangover Buttress Left Edge (a Jimmy Ness route and the first recorded at Polldubh) in two pitches and the excellently protected but exposed Cross 3.
Sunday and suddenly it all came together. Despite a bitter wind Sara and Giles styled up The Gutter in 3 pitches before leading the Styx Buttress Right Wall. They were working like a well oiled machine belaying, leading, belay building, re-racking gear and sorting the abseils in descent. With time to spare we looked at rigging a rope to climb something from the top of a crag on Tear and squeezed in the first pitch of Slanting Slab as a final lead of the day. Now they are waiting to get the rest of their own rack before unleashing themselves on the unsuspecting rock of Scotland!
Great to see Glen Nevis so busy with climbers yesterday taking advantage of the great Spring weather (i.e. it was dry!).

Wales for a week

I was in the south last week joining colleagues from Glenmore Lodge and Plas y Brenin for some joint discussions and training. We had an update from Mountain Training and some chat on how we all work on Mountain Instructor Award Trainings and Assessments on Tuesday followed by a quick hit on the slate- surprised by some snow at the base of routes and hailstones the size of my little fingernail! The next day we split up with 1 or 2 Lodge staff with a PYB staff member and went climbing at Tremadoc chatting through issues on training and assessment courses. I got a good spanking on The Plum but revisited One Step in the Clouds which I last climbed on MIA training 13 years ago and the Fang which I'd never done. Sore fingers after this day. On our final day Team Lodge headed for the coast. Nathan and I bouldered in Parisella's cave whilst the others braved the showers outside for a trad route or two before adjourning to a nearby sport venue to finish our climbing time. A good opportunity for learning and building a community of practise between all three National Centres (Tollymore was represented too). You know people much better when you've shared a rope with them.

 A lot of talent and experience in one room!

 Snow apron on the slate

 Bolts and trad gear in co-existance- shock horror!

 Looking the Tube

 Snowdonia light

 Tim on Cream

 Nathan heading down

Tim on One Step in the Clouds

 The Fang

 Spotting a random Spaniard at Parisella's Cave

 Welsh sport

Trad day 2 this time at Kingussie

After a grand day yesterday we went to Kingussie Crag to give Sara and Giles an opportunity to build more belays, place more gear and climb more rock! We had a sociable day chatting with the 10 others at the crag and the guys worked their way through Finale, The Block, Little Wall Direct, First Pull (4c moves- nice work guys!) before Giles got the bit between his teeth and led The Slab (first lead is always a big deal). Good steady progress and we'll be out again next weekend!

 Masa and Fiona on Right Hand Crack

 Starting with Finale!

 The Block

 Looking down Little Wall Direct

 A 5 layer day for Sara- brrrr!

 First Pull on her second go, well done Sara.

 Going hands free on the abseil to practice recovering a stuck piece of gear

Giles on the sharp end

Teaching trad at Polldubh

I met Sara and Giles when i took them up Curved Ridge last year and we got talking about them taking their indoor and sport climbing knowledge and converting to 'proper' ;-) climbing. Today was our first day out and we were at Polldubh which was dry, except for one brief morning shower, but pretty darned chilly! We climbed Pinnacle Ridge, 3 Pines by the 'Bullet' variation and Repton's Right Hand Route. 7 pitches of climbing with 2 big abseils with lots of belay building, gear placement and stance management from the two of them. More tomorrow!

 Morning warm up

 In series on Pinnacle Ridge

 Sara cruising the rockover

 Sara lapping up the friction

 Brining up Giles

 Topping out during a shower

 3 Pines/Bullet

 Top belay

 Looking down from the roof

 Another route in the bag

 Coming down

 Giles on Repton's Right Hand Route

 Sara borrowed my jacket to keep out the cold

Last pitch of the day