Winter ML Training

Working again for Glenmore Lodge this week, this time on a Winter Mountain Leader Training Course. The snow pack has settled and firmed up nicely after the thaw and many routes are in good condition. I was in Coire Laoigh Mor today and we were revisiting and looking at teaching basic movement skills on snow. Over in Sneachda other Staff working for the Lodge were involved in evacuating a casualty injured after a fall on Finger's Ridge before carrying on with their own climbing. No pics today, forgot my shades and it was so bright I was squinting all day!

One last drag at the White Owl

Out today with Rich for some easy access ice. Although it has been warm I saw on the road south yesterday that Smoking the White Owl (Finnisg-Aig Falls) still looked complete-just. We had a good day getting 4 slightly hollow and damp but chewy pitches of ice. It needed a bit of care to choose a route solid enough to climb however- fortunately the steeper the ice the better it was, but I wouldn't hold out any bets for another day.

Ice climbs are fun whilst they last!

Silver Tear or 'Swingin' in the Rain'

Despite the forecast Guy and I had the day free so we headed north and west from a damp stat in Inverness. It was drizzling when we got into the car, it was raining when we got out of the car at Kishorn and it was chucking it down in Coire na Poite when we reached the base of the ice.

We new immediately that we weren't going to get much done as we were already soaked and much of the ice was melting at a rapid rate- standing under curtains of icicles with water pouring off of them will defintiely negate your life insurance.

The first pitch of Silver Tear was still fat (as was the first pitch of The Cooler) and not threatened by any major curtains of ice above so Guy set off making short work of it (very wet ie is friendly for axes and crampons but its disconserting to see water running out of screws placed 10 minutes earlier. I was rather soggy when I joined him but he foolishly told me he was warm enough for another pitch so off I went up steep chewy ice... much of which no longer appeared attached to the crag: -(

After leading that pitch I was glad to place a couple of ice screw threads and ab back to guy who was now shivering uncontrollably and who had also converted his belay into an ab station. Retreat! Run away!

The routes would respond well to another prolonged freeze but in particular the third pitch of Silver Tear was looking thinner than in recent pictures.

Lochaber College

Today I was working with UHI Lochaber College Adventure Tourism Management Degree 2 years. The team I had already included some accomplished climbers both in summer and winter (E2 and Grade V) so I decided that some climbing was in order.
We headed round to Nevis Range and the Finnisg-Aig Falls which none of the team had done. I led a pair up whilst the more experienced pair led themselves.
It was another busy day with teams including Plas Y Brenin, Alan Kimber, Hughes Mountaineering, Jagged Globe, Snowgoose and Zac Poulton all on the route. Some care was needed to build belays away from falling ice and choose a route option that avoided tangling with other teams but everyone looked to be enjoying their climb.
Topped out to blinding sunshine..... again!

Win some... lose some...

I was going to go to the North West today but I was lured to Mull by Colin's photos in hopes of a new route.

Guy and I got up at stupid o'clock to catch a ferry and drive down Mull. It was a truely stunning morning and we could see ice streaks on both crags from the road.... but it didn't look fat....
We flogged up the short steep hillside to Creag Brimishgon first to find steep hollow ice well detached from the basalt. People often describe ice features as 'cigars' this was more like matchsticks stuck together with a little water, often overhung by upturned crowns of thorns- massive windblown chandeliers. We swung an axe or two but the curtains were thin.... very thin and with water flowing too we didn't fancy the ice with no protection. We waded back and forwards in snow up to our waists at times before self preservation took over and we headed back to the car to drive to Creag a Ghaill.

Here there were a few longer lines but again they were thin, thawing and every route looked to have a section of almost blank wall on it. After inspecting 3 lines we waded up an easier looking gully but even there the snow was rotten and (barely) lying on blank basalt slabs.

Win some... lose some... stunning weather, somewhere I've never been and the rack we carried was so comprehensive that we got plenty of exercise taking it for a walk!
My father in law climbed at Steall today (very busy) and some brave souls have waded into Ben Nevis to climb Vanishing Gully and Fawlty Towers over the weekend. Still ice to go for at Udlaidh (heavily corniced on the left, better on the right). Big avalanches on the west face of Stob Coire nan Lochan today.... the snow higher up still has a way to go to settle.

More ice...

Finnesg-aig Falls again with Dave and Steve today. We found that again Kenny had the same idea and were pleassed by the trench dug by the parties who have climbed it since the major snowfall.
There is a lot of snow on the flanks of the gully approach to the climb but we found a safe approach and plenty of ice on the left side to start the route on. The middle 2 pitches are less steep and lead to the final excellent pitch of good ice. Dave had his headcam on today so the video gives an interesting perspective on the route. Unfortunately my much used G14s broke today- the main foreplate of one sheard right through :-(
A large crown wall is visible, 500m long running north from the Red Burn above and parallel to the pony tack on Ben Nevis, further evdince of huge avalanches is visible on the flanks of the Ben high above Glen Nevis. Climbing has been possible on a handful of routes in and around Lochaber such as the East Buttress of the North Ridge of Stob Ban and Taxus as well as the CIC Hut Cascades, Finnisg-aig and Steall Falls but as the Lochaber SAIS forecast makes clear things are still VERY unstable around here. If you are venturing into the hills think carefully about your route and be prepared to turn back rather than take un-necessary risks. The mountains will be there another day, the trick is to make sure we are!

Return to Steall

As Adam reported yesterday An Steall Ban is formed again and although it was thawing today there is enough snow on it thagt the ice should last for a few days of the forecast weather.
Today I was out with Steve and Dave whose Scottish Climbing experience had yet to include water ice. So we took the opportunity to avoid the hills in their current condition and make and ascent of this great we climb. The guys looked at placing and removing screws, rigging v threads and movement on ice as we climbed up in 4 pitches. We then rigged an abseil descent to end our day.

Andy joined another 20+ people on the zigzags today reporting some heavy going on the crest of Gear Aonach and the descent from Coire nan Lochan. Still lots of unconsolidated snow high up as these skiers found out today.