Monday 12 July 2010

The Moelwyns and the slate

Paul on Y Gelynen (VDiff- Severe Direct Finish)
Kirkus's Climb Direct (Severe- contender for best Severe in North Wales?)
Pinky Pitch 1 (4b)
Pinky VS 4c top pitch
Adam on Equinox VS4c Bus Stop Quarry
Yesterday dawned dry- hooray! Paul and I went to the Moelwyns where we climbed 10 pitches from VDiff to VS (Y Gelynen, Kirkus Climb Direct and Pinky). Then this evening I went with pals to bus stop quarry for another 3 pitches – this time on the slate and with my new shoes!


Unknown said...

The Moelwyns is one of my favourite areas. Much as I like Kirkus Route, I don't think it's quite as good as Main Wall.

At one time had actually "done" all the routes on those crags, but there are now several hard modern routes, which I'll only get up on a winch.

If you go back there the crag on the hill above Ffestiniog (Craig y Clipiau) has some good routes including Ashael and Mean Feet.


Alan said...

Ahhh but they give Main Wall HS 4b now. Yes I looked across at Craig Y Clipiau and the sight of all the clean looking rock appealed to me. Really nice to be out working and climbing away from my usual haunts and thanks for the recommendations.