Sunday 13 September 2009

Saturday on Ardnamurchan





Sticky, slabby, bulgy, cracky, SUNNY, clean, rough and solid gabbro.....
I love it out at Ardnamurchan. The views to Rhum, Eigg, Skye and beyong are to die for, it's like Reiff in that it sticks out as a low lying peninsula into the prevailing westerly airstream but isn't elevated enough to cause any lift and condensing. So, often, when the moist air hits Glencoe its clouds and rain but that same air passed Ardnamurchan by without shedding its load.
This weekend I was working with Greg and Will, 2 pupils from Glasgow Academy who lead indoors and have sport climbed in Spain. Whilst Neal from the school was teaching Emily and Julz I had the 2 guys to introduce to the joy of trad for 2 days. We started on Meal Fhir Eoin Beag where I had the guys follow me up the crag classic Yir (VS4c) looking at gear placement and building their own belays. Then they led An Deireadh and Krakatoa with me in close attendance before we finished with a quick ascent of Great Gabbro (VS4c). We were looking at all aspects of leading: guidebook interpretation, selecting and racking gear , planning and assessing your route for protection, crux moves and rests, placing and removing gear, lead belaying, routefinding, communication, belay building, changeovers and plate orientation at stances and retreat and protecting a personal abseil..... phew.
It was another sunny day - well earnt after a month of weather misery!

No comments: