Wednesday, 13 January 2010

Slow thaw but we still have Seaside Ice!

I'm glad Jane is a climber- when she drives around Scotland working she keeps her eyes open for useful potential routes and her beta saved the day today.
Sally and I headed down to Glencoe to meet Gill and climb on the West face of Aonach Mor. The weather in the car park at 0730 was vile- strong winds and snow. This and the fact that Sal had to drive back to the Lakes and we decided to wimp out. Last night however Jane mentioned a big streak of ice she had seen on the way to Glenuig so Gill and I waved cheerio to Sal and headed west.
We climbed the Eas an Forsay- the falls on the Forsay Burn beside the sea. This gave us an enjoyable but delicate pitch of very thin III at the bottom. I soloed it and tossed a rope down for Gill - this pitch wont be there tomorrow, it was like climbing on egg shells. Above this were 2 more pitches of II (the first about 15m the second a good 40m long) which we both soloed for an enjoyable half day. Now I need to go order some more gloves as this unbroken stint of climbing and skiing (every day since 20 Dec bar 2 spent travelling to Norway and back) has eaten 2 pairs of mine!

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