Tuesday, 10 March 2009

Day 2






Second day of my Glenmore Lodge winter skills course today. We had a mixture of showers and very fine weather and, as promised, much lighter winds. We went back to Sneachda for a bit more cramponing on the flat ice. Then we moved up on the steeper ground beneath the Mess of Pottage, looking at trenching to assess the snow and on through windy col to .1141. From here we dropped down the Cas ridge to do some self arrest practise and look at walking Rutschblocks.

Monday, 9 March 2009

Winter Skills in the Cairngorms


A breezy day for the first of a 5 days of Winter Skills at Glenmore Lodge. The snow was being stripped from some aspects and deposited on others. Donald was able to find some really good scoured slopes left of Jacob's Ladder for his Intro to winter climbing and my team visited the end of the Fiacaill Ridge to look at footwork and self belay and moved over to the ground above the moraines to do some cramponing. Looks like a little less wind tomorrow.

Sunday, 8 March 2009

Friday and the weekend

Friday was a relaxed and sunny end to the week for Bill and Jim’s climbing course at Glenmore Lodge. We walked in and the guys led up Jacob’s Left Edge. Despite the Mess of Potage being typically busy everyone was being fairly sensible and we exited Jacob’s Ladder easily. After a pleasant route we topped out in the sun but were able to see a change in the weather on the horizon. We headed round to 1141 and back to the Lodge for tea and cake. Last week I was working for Glenmore Lodge.
This weekend I have been down at Glasgow Climbing Centre directing a Climbing Wall Award for students from Auchencruive College and taking a little time out from a hectic winter schedule to see my wife and son. Sandy has just learnt to crawl. We have just invested in stair gates and locks!!

Thursday, 5 March 2009

Escape from Sneachda





Finally conditions and weather matched up to give us a day away from Sneachda. We went to Coire an Lochain sharing trail breaking with Giles and his team. The wind was quite strong bringing in more fresh snow but we managed to follow a windscoop from the left into the edge of the Vent which we crossed one at a time and on to the base of Milky Way. A pitch up Milky Way we broke right into Andromeda. The right hand groove gave us some steep well buried ice and mixed moves. A couple more pitches took us out the top via a little more digging and a fine snow arete. By the time we topped out the sun was shining again so we ambled across to the Goat Track for our descent. I was working for Glenmore Lodge today.

Wednesday, 4 March 2009

Sunshine on a snowy day





The day dawned sunny in the Cairngorms and just got better. The copious amounts of overnight snow didn't make route selection any easier though. Jim and Bill wanted to try something a little meatier so we headed for Fiacaill Buttress in the direction of The Seam. After a careful route choice at the base of the buttress a pair passed us heading for the Seam and a team of 4 abseiled in from the top. The climbed the Georgian Variation to Invernookie which neatly left us Short Circuit in the Middle. There was enough snow to climb the main corner and a teeter up the final slab brought us out into the afternoon sun. We descended Fiacaill Ridge to maximise our sunshine time. Other parties were climbing on the Mess of Pottage and right of Jacob's Ladder. The Guides Assessment reported huge volumes of poised snow on Ben Nevis.

On a seperate note Pesda Press have just published an excellent book on Climbing Games by Mountaineering Instructor Paul Smith. For a preview of the contents take a look here: http://issuu.com/pesdapress/docs/climbinggamess . Its available on 16 April.

Tuesday, 3 March 2009

Winter is back!

Today Jim and Bill went out on the sharp end. We went back to a very different Coire an t Sneachda. Along with the winds we had a lot of overnight snow. As the day went on this began to build in the gullys, especially in the bowls at the top. An avalanche tripped at the top of the Runnel apparently carried on around the coire rim almost to Aladdins Couloir. Over in Lochain avalanche activity was also spotted in Y Gully. Here is a little video short to give a flavour of things today. Well done to the guys on their lead of a nice icey Central Gully Left Hand in wild weather.

Monday, 2 March 2009

Sneachda





Out on a Guided Winter Climbing Course in the Cairngorms today. There were still limited options for climbing above Grade II. Bill and Jim have done a bit here already so we opted to start up Spiral Gully (because it was mostly white - a dusting of snow on the small bare patches lending respectability and the possibility of harder ground above). We took a nice little icey mixed groove to the right of the main line and higher up the Grade III direct finish. We stuck to rockier ground as the turf was variable in consistency (not really poor but only thouroughly frozen where near icey patches). The temperatures got milder during the day and the wind rose- a promise of colder weather to come! Today I was working for Glenmore Lodge.