Windy on Meall a' Buachaille from Alan Halewood on Vimeo.
Wednesday, 14 January 2015
Snowy and blowy winter navigation
Windy on Meall a' Buachaille from Alan Halewood on Vimeo.
Monday, 12 January 2015
Winter in the Cairngorms
Well after the AMI AGM the family came east for the day and built snow men, enormous snowballs, most of an igloo, skied and sledged (and went to the cafe of course). Then the snow melted lots yesterday pm. But that's ok because it came back again today!
I'm working an Advanced Winter Skills course for Glenmore Lodge with 6 students who all have winter skills experience already and want to take it a little further. After some centre based discussions we went to the Ciste Gully area where it was snowing and blowing!
I'm working an Advanced Winter Skills course for Glenmore Lodge with 6 students who all have winter skills experience already and want to take it a little further. After some centre based discussions we went to the Ciste Gully area where it was snowing and blowing!
Say it with cake!
Steve Long at the AMI AGM
Where are we>?
Winter again
Goggle action
Scouring and deposition
Snow anchor session below us and a view to Ryvoan
Saturday, 10 January 2015
Walls, AGMs and workshops
I've been at Transition Extreme in Aberdeen running some training for staff on floor walking and how to avoid being seen as the belay police. Floor walking in a commercial wall can be a thankless task; you are responsible for the safe use of your employers' wall and need to constantly observe what is going on whilst making a judgement about whether what you see is something that needs intervention or is just 'different' from the floorwalkers preferences. There is more than one way to skin a cat and recognising that just because someone doesn't do a stopper knot on a rethreaded fig 8 its not the end of the world.
If a floorwalker does need to speak to customers about something their doing they could ask a question and approach them in a pleasant manner (providing safety isn't an immediate issue) as opposed to steaming in with an attitude that is designed to make the climber feel defensive- its quite a skill.
Our training involved some practical problem solving, some upskilling in terms of making people think about what is and isn't safe enough and some scenarios for them to deal with to work on their 'scripts' on how they would approach people. We finished it off with some games and coaching chat to round out the 2 days.
Yesterday and today I was supposed to be on the hill climbing with Ruaraidh a long term student of mine. The weather forecast made us reassess the plan and we spent a fruitful day coaching his climbing movement and leading. Then we decided to reschedule saturday.
I'm at the AMI AGM at Glenmore Lodge now and after a sociable few beers last night was looking forward to an unexpected day off to catch up on some paperwork. Best laid plans… I spent this morning filling in for a flu filled colleague running a workshop on decision making when taking winter walking groups out on the hill. The first decision we made was not to go on the hill in this weather!
If a floorwalker does need to speak to customers about something their doing they could ask a question and approach them in a pleasant manner (providing safety isn't an immediate issue) as opposed to steaming in with an attitude that is designed to make the climber feel defensive- its quite a skill.
Our training involved some practical problem solving, some upskilling in terms of making people think about what is and isn't safe enough and some scenarios for them to deal with to work on their 'scripts' on how they would approach people. We finished it off with some games and coaching chat to round out the 2 days.
Yesterday and today I was supposed to be on the hill climbing with Ruaraidh a long term student of mine. The weather forecast made us reassess the plan and we spent a fruitful day coaching his climbing movement and leading. Then we decided to reschedule saturday.
I'm at the AMI AGM at Glenmore Lodge now and after a sociable few beers last night was looking forward to an unexpected day off to catch up on some paperwork. Best laid plans… I spent this morning filling in for a flu filled colleague running a workshop on decision making when taking winter walking groups out on the hill. The first decision we made was not to go on the hill in this weather!
Tuesday, 6 January 2015
A (very) little climbing
I've got to travel to Aberdeen this afternoon for work tomorrow but Jamie and I hope to squeeze some climbing in before I dashed off. We headed up into the murk early on and I was soon feeling like the traditional goretex boil in the bag in the moist conditions. There has been plenty of fresh snow put down after yesterday's thaw. In Coire na Ciste we wanted something quick so we went to Green Gully. The spindrift poured, a bit of ice fell with it, the first pitch had holes and water running behind it, the lights went out as more spindrift poured. We debated what would be happening in the exit basin above us. We bailed- out of time for my transport, having had a little climbing and not masochistic enough to stick it out!
We saw Adam heading to No.3 Gully Buttress (a good deal less spindrift lashed) and I think Mike went to the Cascade.
At some point the crag apron to the right of where we abseiled to had avalanched, a shallow slab had released along the base of Diana (don't know when, we only spotted it as we descended, it may have been us moving around on it) leaving a crown wall maybe 3 inches high). Although not on an aspect we expected to be threatened today the extensive spindrift coming all down the slab must have been producing surface instabilities.
That's 2 less than satisfying climbing days in a row- not a good habit… Next out for work friday saturday in the Cairngorms and conditions look… challenging!
We saw Adam heading to No.3 Gully Buttress (a good deal less spindrift lashed) and I think Mike went to the Cascade.
At some point the crag apron to the right of where we abseiled to had avalanched, a shallow slab had released along the base of Diana (don't know when, we only spotted it as we descended, it may have been us moving around on it) leaving a crown wall maybe 3 inches high). Although not on an aspect we expected to be threatened today the extensive spindrift coming all down the slab must have been producing surface instabilities.
That's 2 less than satisfying climbing days in a row- not a good habit… Next out for work friday saturday in the Cairngorms and conditions look… challenging!
Walk in
Jamie heads up
Going...
…going...
…gone!
Adam heading to No.3 Gully Buttress
emerging from my spindrift pummelling
Snow flowing like water
The abominable snow Jamie
More spindrift
Run away
Water flowing behind the first pitch
Small crown wall along the base of Diana
Sunday, 4 January 2015
Not today...
Maybe I'm getting old… or maybe not. Jamie, Iain and I started walking in to Ben Nevis in the dark this morning and were disappointed with the fact it was raining (well maybe drizzling with a little breeze). We persevered and headed to the CIC Hut. It was damp, grey and mild… and we passed a few teams heading out.
At the hut there was the usual humming and hawing, verbal jousting and justifying, but the long and the short of it was it was wet and not particularly pleasant. We were certain to do something if we headed up but the fact is that all 3 of us will put in plenty of days in rubbish weather on the hill this year and just don't feel like one more- especially after a great day yesterday. A few guys from South Wales were getting ready for their last day out before the drive home tomorrow and were listening to us in amusement. They were headed for Ledge Route. I'm lucky I live here and have plenty opportunities to enjoy it without feeling any pressure on bad weather days off- other than a self induced belief that I should be seizing every day of course.
Psyche low we walked out and spoke to a few optimists heading in and even as we headed down the glow to the west made me think it would improve- and it bloody did. There were a few hours of lovely looking weather around the middle of the day before it clagged in again.
If we'd gone on we'd have got something done but it would still have been wet and mild so no regrets- life's too short.
Glad the folk caught in an avalanche after cornice collapse in No.4 are ok.
Also received this from Dave Percy who had a good day out yesterday on Hadrians:
"Was just reading your blog. I climbed Hadrian's yesterday, enough ice to take a screw belay midway up the first smear. Not climbed it before but suspect first smear may be a wee bit longer than normal, we climbed it from the left so wouldn't have made it to the belay above the top steepening in a single 60m pitch. The rocks there were all well iced, would need screw belay if climbing from the right in a single big pitch. Route mostly in good nick (a few short brittle sections) but hard ice nearly all the way equals sore calves!
Hope that beta helps someone!
Cheers
Dave Percy"
At the hut there was the usual humming and hawing, verbal jousting and justifying, but the long and the short of it was it was wet and not particularly pleasant. We were certain to do something if we headed up but the fact is that all 3 of us will put in plenty of days in rubbish weather on the hill this year and just don't feel like one more- especially after a great day yesterday. A few guys from South Wales were getting ready for their last day out before the drive home tomorrow and were listening to us in amusement. They were headed for Ledge Route. I'm lucky I live here and have plenty opportunities to enjoy it without feeling any pressure on bad weather days off- other than a self induced belief that I should be seizing every day of course.
Psyche low we walked out and spoke to a few optimists heading in and even as we headed down the glow to the west made me think it would improve- and it bloody did. There were a few hours of lovely looking weather around the middle of the day before it clagged in again.
If we'd gone on we'd have got something done but it would still have been wet and mild so no regrets- life's too short.
Glad the folk caught in an avalanche after cornice collapse in No.4 are ok.
Also received this from Dave Percy who had a good day out yesterday on Hadrians:
"Was just reading your blog. I climbed Hadrian's yesterday, enough ice to take a screw belay midway up the first smear. Not climbed it before but suspect first smear may be a wee bit longer than normal, we climbed it from the left so wouldn't have made it to the belay above the top steepening in a single 60m pitch. The rocks there were all well iced, would need screw belay if climbing from the right in a single big pitch. Route mostly in good nick (a few short brittle sections) but hard ice nearly all the way equals sore calves!
Hope that beta helps someone!
Cheers
Dave Percy"
The CIC Hut thermometer this morning
Lifting a little on the way out but no regrets!
Saturday, 3 January 2015
Following the fat ice on Ben Nevis
I'm in no hurry to go back to work and have been passing on bookings to do some climbing for myself.
Today Iain and I went up Ben Nevis (along with many others) to see what remains of winter- the answer was plenty! It was cool as we entered Coire na Ciste and passing below No.5 Gully there was a thick layer of graupel just below the surface layer of refrozen snow.
There was plenty to go at with parties on Glovers, Green, Comb, Tower Face of the Comb and I saw various people topping out from routes on No. 3 Gully Buttress. We chatted with Tamsin and Lou who were off to Comb Gully Buttress and No.2 Gully Buttress and the Cascade would have been good options at their grade. Round in Observatory Gully I know that Point 5, Tower Scoop and Good Friday Climb all saw ascents. Hadrians looked complete but I don't know how fat it was.
We were after some ice away from the crowds. We had thought of the White Line but the third pitch looked a little broken however the bulges to the left of Raeburn's Easy Route were looking fat. We climbed these giving 40m of ice screw gobbling III (just a little hollow at the very top). Then we soloed across Raeburn's Easy Route to the best looking piece of ice in the Coire. Expert's Choice (III,4) gave us a long pitch of FAT blue ice to the plateau. Surprisingly though although the ice was great and it was pretty chilly there was a little moisture about. Walking round the rim of the Coire to where Lou and Tamsin were almost finished they had had a soaking on CGB!
Sunny in the morning, just a little misty later. Fat ice. What's not to like?
Captions and more pics at: https://www.facebook.com/climbwhenyoureready.mountaineering/media_set?set=a.829603380416114.1073741951.100000993792059&type=3&uploaded=21
Today Iain and I went up Ben Nevis (along with many others) to see what remains of winter- the answer was plenty! It was cool as we entered Coire na Ciste and passing below No.5 Gully there was a thick layer of graupel just below the surface layer of refrozen snow.
There was plenty to go at with parties on Glovers, Green, Comb, Tower Face of the Comb and I saw various people topping out from routes on No. 3 Gully Buttress. We chatted with Tamsin and Lou who were off to Comb Gully Buttress and No.2 Gully Buttress and the Cascade would have been good options at their grade. Round in Observatory Gully I know that Point 5, Tower Scoop and Good Friday Climb all saw ascents. Hadrians looked complete but I don't know how fat it was.
We were after some ice away from the crowds. We had thought of the White Line but the third pitch looked a little broken however the bulges to the left of Raeburn's Easy Route were looking fat. We climbed these giving 40m of ice screw gobbling III (just a little hollow at the very top). Then we soloed across Raeburn's Easy Route to the best looking piece of ice in the Coire. Expert's Choice (III,4) gave us a long pitch of FAT blue ice to the plateau. Surprisingly though although the ice was great and it was pretty chilly there was a little moisture about. Walking round the rim of the Coire to where Lou and Tamsin were almost finished they had had a soaking on CGB!
Sunny in the morning, just a little misty later. Fat ice. What's not to like?
Friday, 2 January 2015
Best of 2014 and heading back north
Here is a a wee retrospective of images from 2014:
2014 in 4 Minutes from Alan Halewood on Vimeo.
I hope 2015 is just as spectacular! After a couple of days with the extended family in Keswick I'm heading back north today to 'have at' the winter for a few days before work begins again!
2014 in 4 Minutes from Alan Halewood on Vimeo.
I hope 2015 is just as spectacular! After a couple of days with the extended family in Keswick I'm heading back north today to 'have at' the winter for a few days before work begins again!
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