Friday, 16 September 2011

More inspiration...

Was running through a few blogs and websites I haven't checked in a while this morning and there is some great writing out there.
This is Andy Kirklunatic writing about climbing in Patagonia:
I learned that you must embrace your environment. Don’t go to a place famous for storms then sit and wait for the good weather. Enjoy the wind and the snow and the rain and see it’s power and beauty. Bend to it’s will.


Kind of resonates with my attitude to Scotland.
(note the water pissing off of my left boot, the boot is full to overflowing...)
More good stuff on that post here....

I mentioned Karen Darke the other day. Read this to see how weird life can be when it comes to sources of inspiration. http://karendarke.com/blog/view/beat_the_yankee

Nick Bullock spoke at the AMI conference last year at Glenmore Lodge (with a beautiful Italian Lady in hand as he called his pint of Peroni and in between 2 hard winter days out in the Loch Avon basin. Read his Blog: http://nickbullock-climber.co.uk/ especially 'Whatever happened to...' from the 2nd July and 'What if...' from the 3rd of September......

Then go and read Kev's post: http://kevshieldsclimbing.blogspot.com/2011/09/new-low.html and spot the truth of Nicks words. If and when they pin him down to write the book buy it.

“What if your fears and dreams existed in the same place?

What if to get to heaven you had to brave hell?

What if everything you ever wanted cost you everything you ever achieved

Would you still go there?”

It all makes me want to run, climb, bike, whatever the weather. Remember how it feels? Tired, cold, wet, sweating with exertion or fear, or both.... It would be a cliche to say 'but alive' but cliches can be true too.

Thursday, 15 September 2011

Quick hit





Stunning morning in Lochaber today. Susie and I went to grab a quick route in Glen Nevis before heading to Aviemore. Rock was dry and warm in the sun but the wee blighters were still about! Then it was off to Aviemore for a spot of work for Glenmore Lodge providing some climbing from staff from Sportscotland's corporate services. I had 3 keen ladies to take climbing and abseiling. We spent some time on the granite towers in the sun in the grounds and playing some bouldering games in the climbing wall.




Wednesday, 14 September 2011

Sun and rock at last





8 years in Lochaber and this is the wettest summer I can remember. I was getting bored of the endless rain so today's showery forecast was an opportunity not to be missed and so Susie and I went to Ardnamurchan. This low lying peninsula stays drier than the mountainous areas around Glencoe and Fort William- probably because the moist maritime air doesn't get pushed high enough by higher ground to condense until it gets inland. Whatever the reason the gabbro crags of the ring dyke often provide good climbing when its hard to come by elsewhere in the West Highlands.
Today we headed for the best rock in the area which is on Meall Fhir Eoin Beag and the wind and the odd shower didn't stop us enjoying 8 great pitches of climbing. Great to feel shoes on my feet and dry rough rock under my hands!

Monday, 12 September 2011

A day with dry pants....



...achieved by staying in the Climbing Wall. Today I was working for West Highland College's School of Adventure studies with the students from the Higher Outdoor Adventure Leadership course. Dave, Max and I had 16 students between us and spent the day helping them assess their own competence in indoor climbing and providing them with background knowledge on topics such as equipment for personal use and MLT NGBs. Hopefully the students can now go away and work on their climbing independently and many of them will be ensuring that they get the pre-requisites for the Climbing Wall Award.
I was just glad to be inside for a day!

Sunday, 11 September 2011

Rain on me.....


Day 2 of the AMI Shortroping workshop for Trainees today and the forecast was still not helpful. With torrential rain and strong winds higher up I took the 4 students to Gearr Aonach. We started up the first 'Zig' of the Zigzags before breaking right onto the relatively rarely climbed 'Easy Route'. This Grade 3 has some good rock and a fair amount of vegetation and gave us the opportunity to look at a variety of ways of protecting people in a mountaineering context.
It also gave us the opportunity to exceed the ability of 5 brands of waterproofs to cope with Scottish rain!!
At the top of the route we did a quick about face and headed down the Zigzags normal route moving with the coils in hand, taking quick belays, lowering and abseiling on the way.....
....then we legged it back to the cars and went to Crafts and Things for a hot drink in a dry place.
With tomorrow's forecast..... I'm glad I'm working in a climbing wall.
Oh, above is a little video of the MIA Trainees maintaining their senses of humour despite the weather. Good effort this weekend guys!

Saturday, 10 September 2011

A touch damp

River crossing- not in a text book but it kept the feet dry for another hour
Wet and slippery
Awesome rock scenery
Lower away!
Actually more than a touch. I had 3 MIA trainees out today to look at short roping in preparation for their assessments. We went to the west face of Aonach Dubh and worked up B Buttress, across Middle Ledge and onto F Buttress. Then back across Rhyolite Romp and down Dinnertime Buttress.

Friday, 9 September 2011

A looong ride, rain, Nimis Est.... and motivation.

Pants forecast today and I was still in bed ignoring the small boy bouncing on me at 8am. I could have stayed there and hidden indoors all day but I've got some tricky friends to live up to as examples.
One had a knee op that took a year to recover from a few years back. A couple of weeks ago she came second solo female in a 4 day race (foot, bike paddle and swim) Coast to Coast across Northern England and then a week later 3rd in the Helvellyn triathalon. It's hard to stay sedentary when you see your buddies doing that......
So what to do? Another pal of mine (a teacher and outdoor instructor.... one of the best educators I've ever met) has a motto; Nimus Est Numquam Satis. Roughly translated this comes out as 'excess is never enough'- he lives by this in work, play and the consumption of gin and red wine. So if I'm going to play I'd better go totally overboard.
I'd never done it but I know its possible to cycle a loop around Ardgour: from Glenfinnan you follow the east coast of Loch Shiel, then a pass to cross, drop down to Strontian and on round to Corran and round the head of Loch Eil. A not very close look at a map makes this seem to look about right.
It's bucketing down, I need to refit my bike computer.... it would be so easy to give up.... my in laws are 70ish and still in Mountain Rescue teams, taking holidays to tramp in New Zealand or walk the John Muir trail (carrying everything of course), leading as hard as me on rock and when they come to my house they always do more DIY on each visit than I ever have.... better not let a little job stop me.
Glenfinnan seems an awful long way from Corpach and the traffic is not the most cycle friendly on the Mallaig road. I've been soaked to the skin since half way to the monument... I could just do a wee day out to the electric bothy and go home.... But I was introduced a couple of years ago to one of the 2 guys who decided to run the Bob Graham, drive to John o' Groats, cycle a tandem to Lands End and then get driven to the start of the Devizes to Westminster kayak race to do that- it was all for charity of course (see the http://theepictri.com/). No short cuts there. Best got on with it hadn't I.
20 km fast off road down Loch Shiel- awesome. Ahead of me 300m climb in 2km. I could turn around to avoid that climb and reverse my route. But I saw a paralympic competitor with no legs speaking on TV this morning. He said you just had to play the hand you are dealt and get on with it.... of course he and the other athletes like him choose to not just play the hand but bet their shirts on it making the most of everything they've got. The climb it is then.... and no you can't rest however long it goes on or steep it gets.
Whizz down the far side to Strontian and its still raining. Committed now, got to keep going. Crank up the tunes, use the bits of old road and enjoy the home bakes from the Sunart Cafe.
Corran ferry. Time for a break. Could take the ferry and go via Fort William- that would be shorter. I call Jane and let her know what I'm up to. "You're doing what? How far? Do you want a lift?" I've never met Karen Darke but a friend rode his bike with her as she hand cycled 1400km through the Himalayas. I reckon I've got another 50km in me.
Quieter road now I'll keep the speed up around 25km/hour and look its stopped raining for the first time all day.... 90km....100km....110km... a night heron every 2km for 20k, keeping up with a buzzard flying ahead and just above me down an avenue of drooping birch. But its pouring again...I'm at the junction with the busy main road. I could call home for that lift.
Or I could just fix a silly grin on my face and enjoy being soaking wet, covered in gravel, having a butt that feels like I've been kicked by an elephant, being cut up by cars and lorries that undoubtedly view me as a right nuisance and knock out the last 11km home.
We only pass this way once... may as well make it count eh? :-)