Monday, 4 January 2010

Eas Anie






Today Gordon and I went to The Eas Anie on Beinn a Chuirn above Tyndrum. Gillian also came along to shadow me at work guiding. The falls are very well formed with enormous curtains of icicles on the flank of the crux pitch. We started up the route by the narrow gorge at the base behind 3 very friendly teams. They kindly agreed to let us climb parallel to them to save time. After 2 pitches of good if well stepped ice we were beneath the main wall. On the front left face a long clean pitch headed straight up. We left that for those coming up around us. To the right was a more featured wall traversing up under a fringe of icicles round onto the same wall. Gordon was keen so we jumped onto this and he made short work of his first outdoor ice climb. Above this we shared the belay ledge with Dave and Lynne and climbed next to each other on the last pitch which although easier still gave some short steep steps. As we left there were a few more teams still enjoying the route in great conditions.

43 comments:

Anonymous said...

Hi Al
Liked your blog on Eas Anie so much we climbed it today. Very busy but great company with only one pair of 'rude' climbers going through everyone else's lines :(
No grade given in your blog; we debated and all thought it was around IV...not experienced enough to give an accurate assessment...what would you think?
Cheers and keep up the great blog
Craig

Alan said...

I'd say IV on the day we did it (well, actually I said III,4 but was over-ruled by everone else who said IV)

Anonymous said...

Thanks Al

I'll record it as a IV 4 in my book (even tho your grading is probably more objective than mine!).

Damn good fun, for a couple of old codgers!

Cheers
Craig

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