Friday 23 January 2009

Glencoe snow again

Jamie B and I were hoping to go and try something he's had his eye on for a while but when we woke to earl heavy rain confirming the forecast we abandoned it for SCNL in Glencoe. The snowpack had thawed a little overnight but we were very careful picking our way to the bottom of Pinnacle Buttress Grooves. I only got 1 feet up it when the snow arrived in force and then spent the pitch struggling with the spindrift. We abseiled back down and crossed to North Wall - described in the guidebook as loose. Jamie was offline prospecting for interestin climbing when the block he was hanging from (and that had his gear behind) moved providing a heart stopping moment. By this stage I was cold enough to be happy to climb up to him and was pleased to find that surprisingly North Gully wasnt holding much fresh snow so we headed up to retrieve our ab tat and home for a warm bath. Ed Chard was on Ordinary Route Central Buttress finding it quite time consuming under very heavy snow, otherwise we didnt see a soul.


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