Monday 21 May 2012

Making hay... no matter what...

I've got a cold... Jane had it and says I brought it from Glasgow... I reckon its from collections of local small children!
But today the sun shone and such days need seizing. So after a shopping spree of goodies from Beal, Clack Damond, Ortlieb, Black Diamond and La Sportiva and some work with the new Mountain Training Candidate Management System (live at beginning of June with luck) I left Jane and Sandy cooling in the paddling pool and cycled from Corpach to Polldubh.
George watson's College were doing battle with the polish on the side of Pinnacle Ridge and a friendly bunch were ascending the Ridge itself. Everyone was happy to let me nip up the Staircase Start though. I stopped to work the bottom half of Hodad (gotta get on it on a rope) before topping out on the normal route. From there I went to Repton's Right Hand and then up to the best Severe in the Glen, Secretaries Direct. 2 of my SPA Trainees from yesterday had mentioned the route, making me want to go and climb it again,  and sure enough they were just walking off as I arrived. Good on them for getting out and making the most of the dry rock.
Its my kind of climbing, a gentle slabby corner of a first pitch with an awkward move off of the ground. The second pitch is a much steeper slab with many small but positive quartz edges sitting proud of the smooth schist making you wish you had trimmed your finger nails as you drop your tips vertically behind the sharp white lips. After that its slabs and ledges and you never more than 1 move from a great jug but the climbing is much easier if you understand how to shift your weight over your feet. Always a pleasure...
Cycled home on the forestry roads on the south side of Glen Nevis and stepped inside for my head to feel like it was stuffed so full of cotton wool it would explode... worth it though.
Video of me ponceing about on first pitch...


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