Wednesday 23 January 2013

Less wind... more climbing. Creagan Cha No.

A better forecast today but the SAIS were still warning of hazardous conditions. We decided to run with the safest aspect we could and go to Creagan Cha No. It helped that I knew that Heather and Fran were 45 minutes ahead of us breaking trail through the drifts on the ridge above the Ciste car park (the beers are in the post guys)!
We abseiled into a well scoured recovery gully and traversed to Duke's Rib (II) the left hand side gives some nice, sustained but very well protected climbing and Paul lapped up the first pitch. Anne has joined us for two days and after seconding pitch 1 she took over the lead to take us out of the top of the crag.
A bite to eat and drink (less wind than on the walk in and just the odd snowflake in the air) and another abseil saw me leading us out of Anvil Gully which I hadn't done before but which gave really good fun  (and again very well protected) climbing at IV,4. Interesting to note that the popularity and accessibility of this route are already showing in the damage to the turf. I wonder if it was still seeing attention in the last thaw? When well frozen like today the turf in that upper corner is firm and compact but tearing it out when soft isn't really playing the game: http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=67756 .













Despite the easterly aspect there was a little 'spooky' slab at the lip of the basin between Duke's Rib and Jenga Buttress and I managed to release a slab about a metre by a metre with little effort. Watch out for windslab on unexpected aspects. It was still there today.

2 comments:

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