Monday 28 December 2009

Busy on Beinn Udlaidh

Rich and I went to Beinn Udlaidh today and we weren't alone. I reckon there were about a dozen teams there today taking advantage of the good weather, short walk in and well beaten trail through the powder. The ice varied from brittle and cold to wet, dripping and chewy.
We climbed Quartvein Scoop (IV,4) one of the classics of the crag as Rich hadn't been here before. We were followed up the route by Sam and Callum, then an unknown pair (girl belaying the first pitch in pale blue jacket- e-mail me if you want pictures) then many more! By that time we had rigged a v-thread an abseiled back in.
Next up we went to South Gully of the Black Wall (IV,4)- another heavily starred route and one that I've wanted to do for a while. The first pitch had been 'well used' and the second was rather wet but still great fun.
Other routes that were climbed or looked climbable included The Croc (may have to start by Peter Pan), Peter Pan Direct, Sunshine Gully, Central Gully, Juniors Jaunt (may be thin- but looked complete from a distance) and West Gully. Organ Pipe Wall looked like a slender free standing icicle from a distance.
It was quite mild and water was on the move but an overnight freeze would help heal the hacking and sustain the routes.
Remember folks, if you follow someone up an ice route, you take your own chances and may pay for it with cuts, bruises or lost teeth from falling ice!


Alex Roddie said...

Lovely! We should have gone there today ... I'd completely forgotten about Udlaidh.

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